Replacing a CPS or Elastic PC by Soakinader

So here is how to replace the PC in a Speedloader 1000 (MK2) with LRT.
The LRT I used was 7/8″ – 9/8″ (ID – OD) [K64] , but 3/4″ – 9/8″ [K69] should also work. [MCM number 5234___]

If you unscrew and remove absolutely everything but the hard chamber/firing valve, you end up at this point.

speed loader repair1

One half of the clamp is stuck because of the firing pin. Taking apart the PC and pushing the pin forwards is one way to get the clamp off, but that would take a LOT of work, due to how the PC is glued and the fact that one screw is covered by that yellow piece. I have done it before, but it’s a pain, and there wasn’t even glue.

Anyways, I yanked out the stock PC from under the clamp half with some twisting. Then I took my cutters and nipped a piece off of the clamp so that I could remove it. The stock PC is very tough, I would say it is comparable to a Flash Flood.

speed loader repair2

Here you can see the barb for the PC and the cut clamp.

At this point, I will note that the stock PC is very unusual. On the plug end it’s 3/4″ – 1 1/8″, and on the PC end it’s 5/8″ – 1″.
This is with the plugs and barbs removed. With the barb inside, I got a measurement of 7/8″ ID. Whoops.
Thankfully, the LRT I had fit well into the clamp and I have had no leaks. It was difficult enough to clamp though. And it works, despite how very curvy the LRT is!

speed loader repair3

Once that was done, I put it all back together and tested it. Amazingly, despite overfilling it to the point where it ballooned over the clamp, it didn’t break.

On a stock gun, the PC moves well and shows on the pressure gauge nicely due to how it fills, starting at the PC end and filling towards the back. On this gun, with this piece of LRT, it fills from the middle, expanding outwards at half the pace, so the pressure gauge isn’t effective any more. It shouldn’t even reach the back… it would probably explode before then.

speed loader repair4

Success!!
So here is how to replace the PC in a Speedloader 1000 (MK2) with LRT.
The LRT I used was 7/8″ – 9/8″ (ID – OD) [K64] , but 3/4″ – 9/8″ [K69] should also work. [MCM number 5234___]

If you unscrew and remove absolutely everything but the hard chamber/firing valve, you end up at this point.

Image
One half of the clamp is stuck because of the firing pin. Taking apart the PC and pushing the pin forwards is one way to get the clamp off, but that would take a LOT of work, due to how the PC is glued and the fact that one screw is covered by that yellow piece. I have done it before, but it’s a pain, and there wasn’t even glue.

Anyways, I yanked out the stock PC from under the clamp half with some twisting. Then I took my cutters and nipped a piece off of the clamp so that I could remove it. The stock PC is very tough, I would say it is comparable to a Flash Flood.

One half of the clamp is stuck because of the firing pin. Taking apart the PC and pushing the pin forwards is one way to get the clamp off, but that would take a LOT of work, due to how the PC is glued and the fact that one screw is covered by that yellow piece. I have done it before, but it’s a pain, and there wasn’t even glue.

Anyways, I yanked out the stock PC from under the clamp half with some twisting. Then I took my cutters and nipped a piece off of the clamp so that I could remove it. The stock PC is very tough, I would say it is comparable to a Flash Flood.

Image

Here you can see the barb for the PC and the cut clamp.

At this point, I will note that the stock PC is very unusual. On the plug end it’s 3/4″ – 1 1/8″, and on the PC end it’s 5/8″ – 1″.
This is with the plugs and barbs removed. With the barb inside, I got a measurement of 7/8″ ID. Whoops.
Thankfully, the LRT I had fit well into the clamp and I have had no leaks. It was difficult enough to clamp though. And it works, despite how very curvy the LRT is!

Image

Once that was done, I put it all back together and tested it. Amazingly, despite overfilling it to the point where it ballooned over the clamp, it didn’t break.

On a stock gun, the PC moves well and shows on the pressure gauge nicely due to how it fills, starting at the PC end and filling towards the back. On this gun, with this piece of LRT, it fills from the middle, expanding outwards at half the pace, so the pressure gauge isn’t effective any more. It shouldn’t even reach the back… it would probably explode before then.

Image

So I did some tests and added my own gauge! All you have to do is stop when the edge of the yellow bar inside reaches the black line. The red zone is the “Danger Zone”. Despite overfilling the PC well into this zone, nothing bad happened (yet) but I’m not going to push my luck. The capacity at the black zone is between 400 and 450mL. The range is still very good, probably as good as stock with the stock nozzle. Next I would like to try drilling one of my other Speedloaders nozzles and try to get more power out it. I believe that the PC can push out at least 10X, it’s simply a matter of the right nozzle and how much flow I can get from the valve.

Ta done. Speedloader 1000 #3, now working.

Discussed @ WWN

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