Cracked Pump Seal Repair (Type 2)

Cracked pump seals can cause leaky pumps. Not only do you leak water all over your hand, but you also have to pump more times than before to pressurize your blaster. I designed this repair to fix the pump on the XP 150. The pump seal on the 150 is made of plastic. This repair has not been tested on rubber pump seals, though I imagine it could work just as well.

You Will Need:

Rubber O Rings in the size of your pump seal. For the XP 150, which is shown here with a custom pump grip/handle, you will need a size #13 O Ring (7/8″ O.D. x 11/16″ I.D. x 3/32″).

Here’s what my pump seal looked like before the repair, you can see the cracked dent on the left side:

Clean your pump seal with soap and water and then make sure to dry it off. Any plastic pump seal will be hollowed out on the inside, kind of like the O ring itself, except that your O ring will fit in perfectly snug inside the pump seal. Fill this hollow with super glue.

Next you want to push the O ring inside, snug up against the pump seal. Notice on the bottom left corner (8 O’Clock) you can still see where the original crack was. Now, however, the O ring and super glue has sealed the crack, and even though its still slightly dented it is pushed out far enough to where it doesn’t matter.

I found that flathead screwdrivers work well for securing the O ring inside without getting glue all over yourself, but if you do not have a good flathead (try first without the glue) then you can push the O ring in with your fingers, then add the glue after. The O ring will bolster the old pump seal and after it dries it will work as good as new.

Here’s what the end result should look like:

Trigger Pull Repair

Problem Diagnosis:

I picked up a CPS 2000 MK1 recently. It’s a beautiful gun, inside and out. (Although I found a few spiders). But it has a problem, even though physically nothing looks wrong. At low pressure/ with air, it works fine. But put some water in, and it’s difficult to get it to shoot. Pulling the trigger does almost nothing. If you pull just a little harder, you can get water to start shooting out of the nozzle but at very low velocity (like pouring onto the ground). Once this has started though, letting go of the trigger and pulling it again fires it quite nicely. Also, if you pump the gun up to maximum, sometimes it will start nozzle leaking on it’s own and pulling the trigger makes it fire.

I will end up shortening the trigger pull to maximize valve control.

Notice how it’s different from a normal CPS 2000/2500. Also, the trigger is thicker and a more durable plastic. The hard PC isn’t glued. Etc, etc…

So what’s actually wrong with this cannon? Nothing, well sort of. The fact is, that the pressure generated is so much, that the internals turn and twist when you try to pull the trigger. I could barely pull the pin once the gun was pressurized; and seeing how I have manually pulled the pin on a 3000, 2000 MK2, 2500, I can attest to how powerful this thing is. So what did I do?

Right: Original hole for trigger wire — Left: New hole —-Also, I apologize for the crappy picture.

So I figured I would try this. It’s not a hair trigger, but now when you pull the trigger it starts to move the firing pin back immediately instead of just moving the wire back 1/4 inch, accomplishing nothing. Now, without pulling the trigger back all of the way, it can be fired reliably. Like it was supposed to be! It’s reversible, you can’t see it, and unless you drill too many holes and end up with a slot, you can’t screw it up. And it works!

Discussed @ WWN

Cracked Pump Shaft Repair

Materials:

-Drill bit set (The more the better)
-*3/8″ bit
-*1/4″ bit
-Glue (Acryllic super glue or epoxy)
-Piece of plastic pipe/rod close to 3/8″ OD, 1 inch or more in length
-The complete, original pump

Fixing a broken pump

So what I did was take a piece of ~3/8 OD hollow plastic rod, and jammed it into the pump. You can either sand down the plastic rod or take a drill to the interior of the pump, or both. Drilling the pump is a good idea- it’s broken anyways, and it will mean more material for the strength of the inner rod. When it just fits smoothly, it is time for the glue. If you are using epoxy make sure it’s a bit looser so that there is room for the epoxy to spread. Push the rod in quickly and get it into place before it gets stuck.

Do one end at a time, making sure to maximize the surface area for the glue. Hold the shaft straight and let the glue set for several hours.

Then carefully drill a series of small holes in the plastic rod, in the center of the old hole until you get up to 1/4″. This should fit smoothly inside of the pump handle. I tried 7/32 but it was too tight and broke the inner rod the first time. So go for 1/4″.

You can see the rod inside the pump.

And done. The pump is now fixed. It’s been used quite roughly and so far so good. You could also do this proactively to reinforce the pump, just make sure you have a hammer handy to put the rod in all the way. Drill a hole in the rod and you are done. Now if only you could buy strong plastic rods from somewhere. The piece I used was from some broken gardening framing thing.

Discussed @ WWN

Replacing a CPS or Elastic PC by Soakinader

So here is how to replace the PC in a Speedloader 1000 (MK2) with LRT.
The LRT I used was 7/8″ – 9/8″ (ID – OD) [K64] , but 3/4″ – 9/8″ [K69] should also work. [MCM number 5234___]

If you unscrew and remove absolutely everything but the hard chamber/firing valve, you end up at this point.

One half of the clamp is stuck because of the firing pin. Taking apart the PC and pushing the pin forwards is one way to get the clamp off, but that would take a LOT of work, due to how the PC is glued and the fact that one screw is covered by that yellow piece. I have done it before, but it’s a pain, and there wasn’t even glue.

Anyways, I yanked out the stock PC from under the clamp half with some twisting. Then I took my cutters and nipped a piece off of the clamp so that I could remove it. The stock PC is very tough, I would say it is comparable to a Flash Flood.

Here you can see the barb for the PC and the cut clamp.

At this point, I will note that the stock PC is very unusual. On the plug end it’s 3/4″ – 1 1/8″, and on the PC end it’s 5/8″ – 1″.
This is with the plugs and barbs removed. With the barb inside, I got a measurement of 7/8″ ID. Whoops.
Thankfully, the LRT I had fit well into the clamp and I have had no leaks. It was difficult enough to clamp though. And it works, despite how very curvy the LRT is!

Once that was done, I put it all back together and tested it. Amazingly, despite overfilling it to the point where it ballooned over the clamp, it didn’t break.

On a stock gun, the PC moves well and shows on the pressure gauge nicely due to how it fills, starting at the PC end and filling towards the back. On this gun, with this piece of LRT, it fills from the middle, expanding outwards at half the pace, so the pressure gauge isn’t effective any more. It shouldn’t even reach the back… it would probably explode before then.

Success!!
So here is how to replace the PC in a Speedloader 1000 (MK2) with LRT.
The LRT I used was 7/8″ – 9/8″ (ID – OD) [K64] , but 3/4″ – 9/8″ [K69] should also work. [MCM number 5234___]

If you unscrew and remove absolutely everything but the hard chamber/firing valve, you end up at this point.

One half of the clamp is stuck because of the firing pin. Taking apart the PC and pushing the pin forwards is one way to get the clamp off, but that would take a LOT of work, due to how the PC is glued and the fact that one screw is covered by that yellow piece. I have done it before, but it’s a pain, and there wasn’t even glue.

Anyways, I yanked out the stock PC from under the clamp half with some twisting. Then I took my cutters and nipped a piece off of the clamp so that I could remove it. The stock PC is very tough, I would say it is comparable to a Flash Flood.

One half of the clamp is stuck because of the firing pin. Taking apart the PC and pushing the pin forwards is one way to get the clamp off, but that would take a LOT of work, due to how the PC is glued and the fact that one screw is covered by that yellow piece. I have done it before, but it’s a pain, and there wasn’t even glue.

Anyways, I yanked out the stock PC from under the clamp half with some twisting. Then I took my cutters and nipped a piece off of the clamp so that I could remove it. The stock PC is very tough, I would say it is comparable to a Flash Flood.

Here you can see the barb for the PC and the cut clamp.

At this point, I will note that the stock PC is very unusual. On the plug end it’s 3/4″ – 1 1/8″, and on the PC end it’s 5/8″ – 1″.
This is with the plugs and barbs removed. With the barb inside, I got a measurement of 7/8″ ID. Whoops.
Thankfully, the LRT I had fit well into the clamp and I have had no leaks. It was difficult enough to clamp though. And it works, despite how very curvy the LRT is!

Once that was done, I put it all back together and tested it. Amazingly, despite overfilling it to the point where it ballooned over the clamp, it didn’t break.

On a stock gun, the PC moves well and shows on the pressure gauge nicely due to how it fills, starting at the PC end and filling towards the back. On this gun, with this piece of LRT, it fills from the middle, expanding outwards at half the pace, so the pressure gauge isn’t effective any more. It shouldn’t even reach the back… it would probably explode before then.

So I did some tests and added my own gauge! All you have to do is stop when the edge of the yellow bar inside reaches the black line. The red zone is the “Danger Zone”. Despite overfilling the PC well into this zone, nothing bad happened (yet) but I’m not going to push my luck. The capacity at the black zone is between 400 and 450mL. The range is still very good, probably as good as stock with the stock nozzle. Next I would like to try drilling one of my other Speedloaders nozzles and try to get more power out it. I believe that the PC can push out at least 10X, it’s simply a matter of the right nozzle and how much flow I can get from the valve.

Ta done. Speedloader 1000 #3, now working.

Discussed @ WWN

Cracked Pump Seal Repair

This repair works best for pumps with rubber skirt seals. This type of pump is highly prevalent in CPS blasters.

You Will Need:

• 3/8 od vinyl tube (or whatever size fits)

Simply take the 3/8 od vinyl tube (or whatever size fits) and jam it into the pump head face between the rod and the skirt. You can cut a second piece and get it behind the second flange as well. (you can see it in this picture). This will tighten up any pump that you put it into. And I have done this multiple times, and it works really well. There are a few more pics of this on my minus page.

Only other solution is to wrap it in etape and hope it lasts. –Soakinader

WWN Discussion

Repairing a Firing Valve (for CPS)

If your weapon is constantly leaking from the nozzle you may have a misaligned valve seal. The seal is made up of 1 or 2 rubber washers placed on the end of a firing valve. The rubber washers shut off water flow from the firing chamber to the nozzle. When you pull the trigger the firing valve is pulled away from the back of the nozzle, breaking the seal, and giving the pressurized water in your firing chamber an escape route out the nozzle.

When the rubber washers are misaligned or broken the valve does not seal all the way, which is why water constantly leaks from your weapon’s nozzle. Not all nozzle assemblies can be disassembled. Smaller weapons usually have a single piece of plastic encasing the firing valve. Larger guns usually have 2 pieces of plastic, screwed together, encasing the firing valve.

Step 1: Disassemble the Blaster

Step 2: Disassemble the Nozzle Assembly

CPS 2500 Firing Valve disassembled

Step 3: Place the Rubber Washers Snuggly on the Firing Valve

The larger washer goes on first, followed by the smaller washer. Apply as little pressure as possible to the firing valve. You do not want to push it backwards, as it will prevent the valve from sealing, and your gun will continue to leak, possibly even worse than before. I glued the washers in place to prevent them from coming loose again. If you choose to do this, make sure the glue you are using won’t eat through the rubber.

Step 4: Reseal the Firing Assembly

Step 5: Reassemble the Blaster